Senoritas • Statistics for August

August: Big Groundswell, Stubborn Winds

August keeps the same script as July: maximum-size winter swell locked in a battle with stubborn S/SSW winds. The average height remains 1.9m (6ft), the period rebounds to 13.0 seconds, and the swell direction stays overwhelmingly SSW at 71 percent, with S adding 17 percent. The 1.5-2m (5-7ft) class dominates at 38 percent, while 2-2.5m (7-8ft) waves account for another 20 percent. This is serious-muscle surf. The problem, once again, is the wind. Ideal offshore wind sits at just 2 percent. SSW and SW directions combine for over half of the observations, and S fills in another 38 percent, creating that familiar choppy, cross-shore mess on the exposed WSW bank. The saving grace is the raw power of the long-period South Pacific groundswell; even a brief dawn patrol under light E/NE offshore flow can serve up some of the heaviest waves of the year. Water temp bottoms out near 15.5°C (60°F), so bring the thick rubber and watch the forecasts closely.